This is one of the most beautiful places in all the world. Whenever I travel anywhere else and come back, I take deep breaths and think to myself, “My God, this state, and this valley especially, is vast and clean and quiet and wild yet.” The wildlife of Alaska speak with a gravitas so powerful I understand why a lady in Klukwan lamented: “We no longer listen to the Bear people, the Tree people, the Raven people.” She…