Klondike Relay team “Cut to The Chafe,” left to right: Hilary Swift, Nate Anderson, Abbey Collins, Mischa Lopiano, Alanna Johnson, Nancy Swick, Ellie Poteat, Austin Taylor, Kiki Tsilimos and Jenna Kunze.

There is unmarred water on both sides, heartache blue, and steady sea unfurling in front of us like Aladdin’s carpet. Facing south as we glide up the Taiya Inlet to Skagway, our angle on the deck doesn’t allow us to look forward, only back…